Getting back to the electronics question, tonight I'll see about the autoexec and config lines I'm using to initialize the SB16. At the time, I only had the Yamaha and a Sound Blaster Audigy 1 if memory serves, so I was using the incredibly memory-greedy drivers that came with IT and it simply ate too much for the Interplay game to even launch. The LotR simply didn't like the card and would freeze and crash when I tried to utilize it. And, actually, now that I'm thinking about it, the problem with memory wasn't the Yamaha. That said, my "memory" experience with the Yamaha came from trying to get the CD-ROM version of Interplay's "Lord of the Rings" game running. With regard to the questions about memory, keep in mind that I grew up on DOS but I'm dusting off synapses for a lot of the stuff I'm setting up now as I haven't touched a DOS-based system in over a decade, so I may be completely off-base with my stuff here. This thread gained a life of its own while I was away. That being said, if you have a BP cap on yuor sound card, you should replace it with a BP cap. I read over at Badcaps that all bi-polar caps eventually polarize, but I'm not sure how that works exactly. I always see them on modems, but never on sound cards. The only exception to this is bi-polar caps. I may have left out a few, but you get the idea. Rubycon: YXF or better (YXG, YXH, YXJ, YXM, ZL, ZLG, ZLH, ZLJ, ZLK, ZLS) Nichicon: PM/PS/PV/PW or better (HC, HD, HE, HV, SV, TS, TT) United Chemi-Con: LXZ or better (KZE, KZH, KZM, KZN, KY, KYA, KYB) Panasonic: FC series or better (FM, FR, FK) What I'd recommend though is to stay away from the general purpose series capacitors and use something like: An electrolytic cap is an electrolytic cap, and they all work the same way, regardless of what they're being used for. And yes, you can use pretty much any electrolytic capacitor, as long it's from a quality manufacturer. Yes, you can use all audio-grade caps, but audio-grade caps are a complete waste of money. ^ so what caps are recommended for soundcard use? You can't just replace all with audio-grade one since some are used for decoupling and other reasons, right? Can anyone offer any pointers? How about poly modding? Reply 1 of 20, by dogchainx The first step is for me to pull the thing out and check jumper configuration, but if it IS the caps, how hard is it to swap the caps out on one of these cards? I've never done it before, but I'm assuming due to the relatively low number of caps on an SB16, it's as good a place to start as any. It just seems odd that the output would be so weak AND that the Roland daughterboard I have on it would be turning out such incredibly low MIDI relative to the digital sound. Visually, nothing is wrong with it - no bulges or leaks. This may just be the card itself as I know a lot of folks on the board have nothing positive to say about these boards, but I wasn't sure if reduced output on that level (I almost have to max out the pre-amps and level of the Akai to get it to a listenable level) is a sign that the caps have or are going bad on the board. Unfortunately, though the SB16 has a slightly smaller memory footprint, the signal I'm getting from it - either line out or speaker out - is dirty and incredibly low in level. I had been using a Yamaha Audician via the same setup and had pretty decent luck with it once I figured out how to set the jumpers to disable the onboard amp and render the output a line out. My older PC has its line out run into stereo inputs on my Akai EIE I/O Pro DAC, which then sends the signal to my speakers. I'm still in the early stages with this piece of hardware, but I wanted to cast around for some information in the meanwhile.Īs part of a recent hardware haul, I ended up with an ISA Sound Blaster 16 (CT2980).
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